June 19
Km’s Pedalled – 77 km’s
Destination – Punta Prieta
Some Notes – I found my first Boojum tree near my camping spot. A little ways down the road I found a really nice section of desert that had lots of variety of vegetation (cactuses) and more of these Boojum trees.
Boojum trees
There was actually a fairly cool but strong crosswind. The Hwy 1 junction was actually about 10 km’s closer than I expected. The restaurant at the junction is actually pretty fancy. One of the fanciest restaurants I have ever been to. I have no idea what I ordered and I forgot to take a picture. It was like finely shredded beef jerky. But because it was this finely shredded beef jerky and I had no idea what I had ordered when it was put in front of me it looked like mystery meat mixed with fur and hair. But it came with a side salad and great tasting home cooked fries.
A fancy Mexican restaurant
Hwy 1 would be impossible to bike at night. There is not even a soft shoulder, just an 8-12” drop off at most places. I am not sure how trucks stay on the road?
I am feeling way better than I have in days with relief from this heat. But I do need sleep.
Today is the best day in Mexico so far. Back on the saddle again. Actually, the best day since leaving the Grand Canyon.
Today was like spending the whole day biking through a cactus garden.
I am disgustingly dirty (6 days without a shower) but for the first time in weeks I feel half human. I had 2 meals today. I am actually in my tent and sleeping bag (the evening is already cool) all before dark and snacking on chips and cookies. If this could only last forever.
There must be a truck driver in the family at this restaurant
June 20
Km’s Pedalled – 77 km’s
Destination – Villa Jesus Maria
Some Notes – I left Mexicali one week ago. This morning I woke up at 8:30 am not to sun but a very light wet mist? It was overcast and cloudy? It totally freaked me out after the last few weeks of relentless sun and extreme heat. I quickly threw on my tent fly. But nothing came of the weather (such as light rain). It was quite cool but I was not complaining one bit.
Interesting graffiti
I am still very tired. Still no cell service, not for quite a few days now. You can buy wifi at restaurants. But I keep hoping the data/reception that I already paid for will come back.
I noticed the smallest tear in my tent fly and it’s at a bad spot for a repair. I have never had a tear in my tent in my life. I am pissed at you Big Agnes.
The air is not as dry here and my clothing are heavy and damp from all the sweat. I am not used to that in the desert. Sort of a late start getting on the road at 10:30 am.
I met a Venezuelan solo female bikepacker biking from Venezuela heading north. It was such a shock to my system first to see another cyclist and then to see a female cyclist. I realized later that I am so removed and disconnected from the rest of society (a shower every 2 weeks, sleeping in a tent or on the dirt for so long). I haven’t seen anyone I actually know since McMinnville OR in November. It also felt like she was like the first woman I had seen in 10 years. We spoke for about 15 minutes. A lot of what she said I couldn’t understand (Spanish). I don’t even know her name.
A lot of bike touring blogs talk about how bad this road is and traffic is in the Baja. Yes, the road is bad. Narrow with generally not even a soft shoulder. As mentioned earlier, usually with a 8” to 12” drop. I don’t know how the trucks stay on the road. But traffic especially the trucks are courteous. If this road was in Canada or the US I might be dead by now. The drivers on the Baja have been the most courteous drivers I have ever experienced.
No shoulder and a dangerous drop-off
And all the Mexican safety warnings about coming here? Of course, bad things have happened in this country. But I have felt nothing but safe in Mexico. Can something bad still happen? Of course. But I say to all the people and their fear mongering – hogwash!
Osprey’s
After lunch the clouds mostly disappeared into blue sky. The further south the more sparse the vegetation became. In the late afternoon I saw my first confirmed view of the Pacific Ocean since LA. I sensed the view was coming as I came across numerous Ospreys and nesting platforms.
I feel so disgustingly gross and dirty. Everything feels damp on me because of sweat. Over all a good day. Temperatures were cool (this morning) and than hot (but not killer) and this evening is back to cool temperatures again.
June 21
Km’s Pedalled – 40 km’s
Location – Gerrero Negro
Some Notes – For some reason I didn’t sleep great last night. This morning I woke up to overcast and clouds again. This I could get use to.
Nothing out there
It was an easy flat ride to Gerrero Negro. GN appears to be a pretty rundown Mexican town. It’s famous for whale watching during the winter.
The desert does not care if you live or die
I found a hotel. He said regular price was $500 pesos but he would charge me $450 and I said would stay 2 nights for $800 pesos. I read a blog post of cheaper place for like $250 pesos but when I went there their wifi wasn’t working.
What was left of my day was mostly dragging my ass. I called my brother, I edited some photos and started watching (a few episodes of) Season 1 of Breaking Bad and I had a cold shower. I hate cold showers. I went to bed late.
June 22
Some Notes – It feels like most of my day got away from me. I slept like crap last night. I continue to edit photos and would complete that job by the end of the day. I video chatted with my aunt and parents and of course continued to watch some episodes of Breaking Bad. Oh, and I finally got my laundry washed. Between my assorted tasks I grab lunch, I go to the store down the road for food supplies (drinks and a ¼ watermelon) and I grab super before dark. Overall feeling tired and not overly motivated.
Only in Mexico – beer in a cake
June 23
Some Notes – I slept like crap again. I don’t know what it is about my sleep patterns. I started my morning with a Road Show with Brandon. After lunch I wrote and posted blog posts Mexico Baja Part 2, 3 and 4. I got some photos posted to Flickr and I repaired that small tear in my tent fly. I went to bed at 2am.
